The shrubs (350 of them) arrived last week and the pulp pots yesterday, so I'll be spending the next several weeks getting them transplanted to winter-over here at Colorscapes. Nice to have the pulp pots that insulate the roots through our hot summer and cold winter temps and give me a chance to surround the roots with an amended potting mix that will hold needed moisture through warm temps in September.
Our fourth annual pre-sesaon sale is from 10-3 on Friday and Saturday September 22nd and 23rd. So, mark your calendars and I hope to see you then. M
Mid-summer is the best time to...
*Trim shade leaves off tomato plants so light and warmth reaches the fruit.
* "Cage" plants like fruiting toms so deer can't feed on them. The trimming paid off and I'll be canning soon.
*Do hardscapes while the ground is dry; walkways, garden walls, garden borders and edging, sheds, and irrigation systems.
*Supply water to the dripline. Standing under a tree while it's raining will keep you dry and serves as an example of where the water does reach, the dripline. To water tree roots from trunk to dripline means providing water the diameter of the canopy.
*Trees need about 10 gallons per inch of trunk caliper every week through the heat of summer.
*Cut back the Orientale Poppies that have finished blooming. I prune the entire plant down to about 6 inches since the unattractive foliage starts to look shabby. This cutback will give surrounding plants the space and light they need to grow.
*Trim rangeland grass growing at the base of trees, shrubs, and perennials that will otherwise take water away from plantings and serve as breeding havens for thrips and grasshoppers.
*Check sprinkler heads that may need to have filters cleaned or grass cut away so each head at each station is irrigating to its full radius. Our system is set to run at night, so we test the system during the day to check for problems that would otherwise go unnoticed until the problem (dry spots) starts to occur.
*Check soaker hoses for needed mending. I have 750' of bulk soaker hose that I'll replace 20+ year old lines with.
*Mow only when blades are at a full 5 inches and cut to 3 inches to allow the grass blades to shade the roots. Mowing too often and too short causes excessive drying and promotes weed growth.
*Fertilize the lawn with fertilizer that contains iron, not herbicide (weed and feed product).
*Schedule watering using Excel so each area/garden on soaker hoses receives water once a week.
*Water the lawn to get 2-30 minute cycles, spaced 3 hours apart, twice a week, starting at 10:PM.
*Look for iron deficiency on plants in the landscape.
The pH of our well water is 7.9, the same level as the water delivered to homes and landscapes in Spring Creek. Looking at the chart, we can see that the availability of iron decreases at that level and needs to be supplemented using a chelated form of iron such as 'Ironite'. Chlorosis yellowing is reversable and the application of chelated iron takes affect quickly. Lawns, evergreens, shrubs, container gardens, and other plants benefit from an application.
*Deadhead spent bloom stems to keep annuals and perennials looking their best.
*The early summer heat has sped bloom times and even plants that usually require little deadheading (like vegetatively propagated petunias) were showing heat stress so I trimmed back this petunia to promote bloom formation nearer the center; two weeks after cutback/trim, it looks great!
*Fertilize. High temperatures have necessitated increased watering and is flushing fertilizer through the roots more quickly.