The Plant Hardiness Zone Map designated by the USDA, United States Department of Agriculture, (through whom we are licensed and inspected by annually) is based on the range of average annual minimum temperatures. We used information provided by the National Weather Service that keeps records dating back thirty years, to determine that our "annual minimum temperature" is -30°F placing us between Zone 3@-40°F to -30°F and Zone 4@ -30°F to -20°F. Adherence to the Zone Map is important to us when evaluating perennials and even more so when choosing our product line for shrubs. Recently, we have been seeing an increased use of the American Horticultural Society Heat Zone which uses average maximum temperatures. Zones range from 1@ 1 day over 86° to zone 12@ more than 210 days over 86°. This area is listed as ranging from zones 4-7 and we have determined that the plants we offer are consistently within AHS Heat Zones for this area.
Cultivar, variety, and species are words that are often used interchangeably within plant dialog in reference to the botanical name of a plant. We usally opt for cultivar since most plants that reach the mainstream trade via growers are from, but not the same as, plants found in the wild. Example: Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus' is the genus, species, and cultivar of the Purple Coneflower we offer. Echinacea purpurea 'White Swan', same genus and species, different cultivar. There are also names that are patented, series of plants that include trademark names, and brand names of plants that are registered; a common example of that are the Wave® Petunias. For the most part, avid gardeners prefer to use botanical names and so do we; it avoids confusion. But, if a customer comes in looking for "daisies", I'll pass on calling them by Leucanthemum, and show them the Shastas along with the Rudbeckias, Tanacetum, Heliopsis, Gaillardias, and other "daisies" we have this season.
Acclimating plants is the process of allowing the plants time to become accustomed to a new growing environment prior to planting. The perennials being grown in the southern greenhouse will be moved out to the display area benches in late March to acclimate and to make room for the perennials grown in the northern greenhouse. The roll up curtain walls on both sides of the southern greenhouse allow the plants to receive natural ventilation through those winter-into-spring days. As the summer months approach, we put up shade cloth over both greenhouses and over the display area. We suggest customers acclimate plants, especially "full sun" varieties, for a few days to prepare the plants for growing in a full sun environment. We also suggest planting during the cool, morning hours through the heat of those mid-summer days.
Full Sun at this elevation, 5,800'+-, refers to either a south or west directional facing that is not obscured by nearby structures or trees and can include east facing gardens that receive a full four hours of direct light. Reflected light from walkways or buildings can intensify the light compounding the need to select plants within this catgory.
Part-shade is the comfortable light experienced with the morning sun. It only lasts a few hours and is then cast into a relieving shade through the afternoon. Plants listed for part-shade that are planted in full sun may not reach their full potential. Plants that are listed for either full sun and/or part-shade will tolerate full sun providing the soil is amended with organic matter so it holds that extra water allowing it to stay cooler. Plants that need part-shade to full sun that get stuck in a full shade location quickly become spindly, don't bloom, flop over, or all of the above.
Full Shade is all about the structures and dense plantings that cast an all-day shade onto the foliage and roots of a plant. Not that beautiful, filtered light from small-leafed tree canopies, that would be part-shade. Not even the north side of a building that gets afternoon sun starting in June. Plants listed for full shade that are planted in hot, dry, sunny locations will indicate leaf burn, wilt, and overall poor health. It is the most rigid of the three lightings we list and adherence will determine a plant's success or failure. It is our opportunity to provide plants that thrive under such conditions. The trend towards planting full to part-shade plants is on the rise since people also prefer to spend time through the heat of summer in cool, shady areas.
Water-wise refers to the plants, not the people who water them. It's my favorite listing because there is such a wide variety of plants available to choose from, but it is also a widely misunderstood concept in the home landscape. I believe that most mortalities in the landscape can be directed to the amount of water a plant needs vs the amount of water a plant gets. Through the month of July in 2009, we used 24,846 gallons of water to irrigate 5,000 sq.ft. of lawn area, 16 gardens that include a wide range of trees, shrubs, and perennials, annuals in container gardens, the plants in the nursery, and for our home use. I provide that number only as a guideline/marker to help new and exsisting homeowners determine estimates of the water required for a fully developed landscape in the Spring Creek area through the heat of summer. At current Spring Creek Utilities water rates, that would put our water bill in July at less than $90.00.
Xeric (zir-ik), derived from the term xeriscape, refers to growing conditions suited for water-wise plants. It includes the seven xeriscape principles that make a low maintenance, water-wise landscape attainable:
Thoughtful planning for beauty and water conservation
Improving/Amending the soil if needed
Limiting turf areas
Efficient irrigation; no more "set it, forget it"
Mulching with organic products
Select appropriate plants and group according to water needs
Maintenance; proper weeding, pruning, and fertilizing
Proper planning prevents poor performance. Choosing the plants is the fun part of gardening and since our job is to keep those plants looking great until you're ready for them, your job is get the area ready in advance. The time, energy, and money gardeners spend preparing the area/garden pays off exponentially and greatly increases landscaping success. Plants listed for full sun to part-shade will benefit from adding amendments prior to planting since amendments allow the soil to retain moisture and serve as a buffer to keep soil temps lowered.
Amendment is a broad term and one that we use to describe any organic material that improves soil tilth. Common amendments include: Peatmoss, compost, and aged manures. One frequently asked question is whether to amend the planting hole or the whole bed. My quick answer is, the whole bed. By improving/amending the soil of the entire bed, the plantings are better able to develop a vigorous root system. This applies to beds, borders, hedges, and vegetable gardens. When you are ready to amend the soil or to plant the area, it is important that the tiller's tines be brought up. Amendments do their best work when limited to the top six inches of soil. We avoid deep tilling that pushes amendments down further. Amending the soil is an important end of the season chore that we do every fall after the perennials have been cut back. We think of it as feeding the soil rather than feeding the plants.
Mulch is a commonly used word in the gardening world that literally defined means a protective covering spread on the ground to reduce evaporation and suppress weeds. An important landscape chore, mulches can include: Chipped or shredded bark, clean gravel, ground fabrics, and given the creative forces behind gardening, the list goes on. We have a few basic guidelines on mulches: We don't use ground fabric in the gardens, but we do use it under the washed gravel in the outdoor retail areas and under bark mulch in the gazebo area. We do use small bark chips between perennials and shrubs in the mixed garden; it breaks down within a couple of years to improve soil tilth. We topdress with a slow-release fertilizer prior to spreading bark mulch in the gardens. We don't use gravel as mulch in the gardens, but suggest it for the lean soils preferred by xeric plants in a rock garden setting.
Every person who has worked in the sales area of a nursery has had the experience of a customer picking up a plant and asking if it will grow. Sardonic personalities must put themselves in check and determine the real question which may be: "What height does this plant reach at maturity?" Or, "Does this plant have an upright or mounding habit?" Or, "Will this plant spread slowly or aggressively through the growing season?" Or, "What light and water requirements does this plant need?" The United States Department of Agriculture, through whom we are licensed and inspected, requires that plants be clearly labeled with accurate information. The labels we use are often furnished with the plants and the information ranges in size from microscopic to picture tags four times the size of the container the plant's growing in. Our challenge is to respect the customer's question and provide needed information, through signage, this website, or by simply re-asking the question.
You can email us with questions about the plants we have to offer, gardening in this area, or with any comments or problems you may be having with this site.
