Four Season Gardening
Gardening by Design
Site Development
Adding Amendments
Maintaining a Xeriscape
Suggested Reading
Marvel's Favorite Magazine
Colorscapes Blog
Visit Us On Facebook
Watch Our VideosBook Your Event
At Colorscapes
June-July-August
Contact Us By Email
  Woke up to a thick layer of frost on the lawn this morning. A brisk reminder that it's time to get to my Fall Chore Checklist. The Maples are making an exceptionally good show right now along with the Cotoneasters and other fall foliage favorites.
|
|
Prune perennials to just above soil level   | Pruning back herbaceous perennials (plants whose upper growth dies back through the winter months while the roots are dormant) now rather than waiting until spring has several advantages. First, spring growth will be hardier and healthier than growth that would otherwise have to force its way through dead, matted foliage or be damaged by even the gentle removing of dead foliage next spring. Second, removing foliage now will eliminate potential breeding havens for pests to overwinter, and third, aesthetically the garden is "winterized" leaving no dead remains to clutter the landscape. Remember that as you cut back the perennials the ground becomes exposed causing an increase in the soil drying out. Since many perennial roots are near the surface, it's important to continue watering while daytime temps are warm. |
Check soaker hoses for nicks or clogs that will reduce efficiency, or install a preferred system to make sure that the plants will recieve the water they will need through the heat of summer. Soaker hoses and drip systems deliver water directly to the roots keeping water off foliage and blooms, are self-draining, and can be kept in place for several years without replacing when properly maintained. Apply a slow-release fertilizer. I use Osmocote at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 sq. ft. of garden area. Since it's temperature activated, the fertilizer will not become available to the plants untill next spring-early summer when the plants need it.
|
After cutting back the perennials add amendments to the soil. I think of adding amendments including, peatmoss, compost, manure, and finely chopped bark materials, as feeding the soil rather than feeding the plants (fertilizing). |
After the trees and shrubs loose their leaves, they can be pruned.Without their leaves it is easy to see the branching structure. Thin overgrown shrubs by pruning older branches at ground level. This will sacrifice some spring flowers but will allow more light to reach the center of the plant, strengthen new branches, and allow winter winds to pass more freely through the plant. Likewise, trees are pruned to remove unhealthy branches and add shape and structure to the plant. Most arborists agree that no more than 15% of the overall plant should be removed each year.
A light, regular pruning keeps trees and shrubs shaped and vigorous.
Adjust the irrigation clock and schedule less frequent watering.The back lawn and some developed areas are on a sprinkler system and the controller has been set to water the trees and shrubs, but not the lawn since since we have had some rain and nighttime temps are at or around freezing. It's quite likely that the lawn will be watered for the last time this season right after the last mowing for the year within the next two weeks. Most of the gardens which include trees, shrubs, and perennials are on soaker hoses and I'll thoroughly soak all landscape plantings before shutting the faucets/sprinkler system off for the season.
Schedule a lawn aeration and sprinkler system blowout. This is a late-fall chore and follows the last lawn mowing after the leaves have been raked. The lawn should be watered, but not soaked, just before the aeration. I have learned (the hard way) to flag sprinkler heads to avoid their being damaged by the heavy aeration equipment. I like to apply an end of the season lawn fertilizer and Ironite after the aeration and just before a cold rain or wet snow is in the forecast. The fertilizer will then be available for the lawn next spring as temperatures warm up.
| "Cage" the trunks of trees to prevent trunk damage. Deer will browse on trees and shrubs as they move through the landscape, but the real damage occurs when bucks scrape their antlers against the tree's trunk causing enough damage to result in tree loss. Some cages have been so mauled they need be discarded (better them than the trees). The wire mesh comes in 4'x50' rolls, is easy to install, and also protects young evergreens. Young trees can be further protected by wraping the trunks in fall with paper or burlap designed to prevent sun scald that causes trunk cracking as the result of freezing temps on sunny days through winter. |
|
Mantises are searching for the best place to lay eggs. The eggs are protected through winter in a casing. They seem to prefer wood, but I've seen casings on the underside of lots of materials. I just leave them alone and know that they will help in my battle with bad bugs next summer. The honeybees and bumblebees are seeking out the last of the nectar that can be found in Asters, Nepeta, and other late blooming plants.
More gardening advice on Marvel's Corner. Yes, I know, you don't need more advice, you need somebody to go out and do it...me too. But after all, it's only work if you would rather be doing something else. I can also recommend a great magazine for helpful gardening advice Garden Gate and we always appreciate your questions and comments. Our Email Address is: colorscapespeoplepc.com
Home Page Marvel's Corner About Us Book Your Event At Colorscapes
Marvel Clyde-Owner
colorscapes@peoplepc.com