It's a buggy world, but they're not all bad guys. Beneficial mantises have been busy looking for food and a sheltered place to lay their eggs. The eggs will go through winter in a protective casing and hatch next spring.
Since we have eliminated the use of chemical pesticides in the gardens over the past three years, the honeybees and beneficials have been thriving.
I can't really blame the animals for seeking out a shady place to rest through the heat of summer, but will continue to plant deer-resistant varieties in the gardens.
Salvia 'Desert Blaze' will always have a place on the deck since they are humingbird magnets. Even while I'm sitting just a few feet away, the hummingbirds will hover for several minutes going from one brightly colored bloom to the next.
On August 7th I planted a tree form 'Autumn Brilliance' Serviceberry in this west facing garden along with Viburnum 'Mohican' and ofcourse, more Daylilies which I can never seem to have enough of. The next day, I added another Serviceberry about 8' to the right of the existing one. The Shasta 'Snow Cap' daisies I planted last year really stand out against that dark wooden fence.
I have enjoyed this garden in the display area. The garden Phlox are beautiful through August and into September.
I missed out on the Garden Club Garden Tour this year; just couldn't seem to get myself together that day. If one of you visiting our website has a chance to email me some pictures from the tour I would really appreciate it. colorscapes@peoplepc.com
SEASON CHECKLIST
My season checklist is extensive because I love to be in the gardens through fall. I have so little time to spend in the gardens during the spring since those days are spent in the greenhouse and nursery. I remind myself that every chore I accomplish now means more time to enjoy the gardens next spring. I will continue to water the lawn, trees, shrubs, and perennials thoroughly, but less frequently. The combination of cool nighttime temps, shorter days, and less frequent watering will initiate the wonderful fall foliage that I look forward to.
Cutback Finished Perennials Watch 'You Tube' Video
A well designed winter landscape does not depend on faded perennials. With thousands of perennials in over a dozen gardens, if I don't start now I won't be able to finish, so it's time to start cuttting back the herbaceous perennials (plants whose upper growth dies back through the winter months while the roots are dormant). Shrubs along with evergreen and deciduous trees provide plenty of interest and structure in the landscape throughout the changing seasons. Pruning back perennials now rather than waiting until spring has several advantages. First, spring growth will be hardier and healthier than growth that would otherwise have to force its way through dead, matted foliage or worse, be damaged by even the gentle removing of dead foliage by hand or rake next spring. Second, removing foliage now will eliminate potential breeding havens for pests to overwinter, and third, aesthetically the garden is "winterized" leaving no dead remains to clutter the landscape.
Remember that as you cut back the perennials, the ground becomes exposed causing an increase in the soil drying out. Since many fiberous perennial roots are near the surface, it is important to continue watering while the days are warm.
Shear Ground Covers American Gardener 6 Volt Clip and Shear is a great tool for doing lots of chores including shearing groundcovers and perennials that have finished flowering. Shearing rather than pruning (which is saved for woody stems) is quick and easy. Cerastium, Saponaria, Dianthus, and other groundcovers have set seed so as you trim back these plants, put the cutback on a tarp to collect any seeds and make cleanup easier. Many favorite varieties have seeds that are viable and if you want to have the plants elsewhere next year, scatter the seeds where you want them. Otherwise, prior to shearing, simply "pet" the plants to drop seeds, this will help thicken and spread the plant for next year. By shearing rather than cutting back to soil level, groundcovers can continue to work through winter.
Plant Spring Flowering Bulbs
After the perennials have been cut back, it's time to plant bulbs. I try to get my Spring flowering bulbs in by mid-late October to ensure enough time to develop a root system. By planting after the perennials have been cut back, I can see where there is enough room for planting bulbs towards the middle and back of the gardens. By planting spring bulbs with perennials, the perennials will hide the bulb's foliage as it begins to fade in June. I am careful to avoid planting near aggressive ground covers that form a dense mat that will prevent the bulb from breaking ground next spring. If you're planting bulbs into a newly prepared bed, allow room for planting perennials and annuals next spring; remember to put bulbs towards the middle and back of the garden rather than the front.
Bulbs can be planted in masses of single or mixed colors depending on garden style. Mixed colors are less formal and fit well into a naturalized setting. A 2-3" auger, available locally, used with a drill makes quick work of this annual chore.
Crocus and Hyacinths are the first to bloom, followed by Daffodils, and finishing with Tulips. Since cold temperatures often carry into May, I look for late season varieties. Grape Hyacinths, Muscari, are my favorites since the snowy, cold, spring weather does not affect their flowers. The hybrid Darwin tulips, like the ones I plant, produce large flowers on tall sturdy stems for about three years, after that, their size diminishes and new bulbs need to be planted. Daffodils, Muscari, Hyacinths, and Crocus will form large colonies and continue to produce large flowers. The larger the bulb, the larger the flower so splurge. The bulbs should arrive in good condition free from wounds and firm. Soft or dried out bulbs will do poorly.
Add amendments to the soil. I think of adding amendments including, peatmoss, compost, and finely chopped bark materials, as feeding the soil rather than feeding the plants (fertilizing). Amended soils retain water and nutrients giving both back when the plants need them. Amendments improve the tilth of the soil and allow plants to develop a stronger root system over the years. We amend the entire bed rather than individual planting holes.
After temperatures fall below freezing on a regular basis, the perennials have been cutback, amendments have been added, and the spring flowering bulbs are in, apply a slow-release fertilizer and Ironite so the plants will have the much needed nutrients next spring as they emerge with new growth. Slow-release fertilizers can be either water activated or temperature activated; it is important to check the label and apply a fertilizer that is temperature activated, like Osmocote to avoid encouraging new, tender growth as we move into winter.
Mulch with chopped bark material.
Mulching is such an important chore since it will insulate roots, deter weed growth and germination, be aesthetically pleasing, and improve the overall texture of the soil. I like to use very small bark in the gardens since it decomposes within one to two years. Bark and other wood products use nitrogen as they decompose so it is especially important to use a slow-release fertilizer at this time. Plants cannot compete with bark for nitrogen. A leaf rake can be used to expose crowns that overwinter with their foliage: Examples; Lychnis and Poppies.
Prune Trees and Shrubs.
After the trees and shrubs loose their leaves, they can be pruned. Without their leaves it is easy to see the branching structure. Thin overgrown shrubs by pruning older branches at ground level. This will sacrifice some spring flowers but will allow more light to reach the center of the plant, strengthen new branches, and allow winter winds to pass more freely through the plant. Likewise, trees are pruned to remove unhealthy branches and add shape and structure to the plant. Most arborists agree that no more than 15% of the overall plant should be removed each year. A light, regular pruning keeps trees and shrubs shaped and vigorous.
Garden walls are an easy weekend project and preparing the beds now gives the amended soil a chance to "settle" through the winter and be ready for spring planting when plant selections are at their best.
Adjust the irrigation clock. The back lawn and some developed areas are on a sprinkler system and the contoller has been adjusted to run for one, 30-minute cycle, during the early am hours, twice a week. I will continue to water twice a week while daytime temperatures remain high. Most of the gardens are on soaker hoses and since it has continued to be warm through the day, I will continue to set the soakers to water every five days. I avoid light, frequent waterings with all plantings.
Keep an eye out for dry spots where sprayers or emitters may be clogged or not performing. Upon the advice of the man who installed our sprinkler system, I have cut away the grass around the sprinkler heads and cleaned out the head filters. I mow when the grass is a full 5 inches and avoid cutting the grass too short.
Schedule a lawn aeration and sprinkler system blowout.
This is a late-fall chore and follows the last lawn mowing after the leaves have been raked. The lawn should be watered, but not soaked, just before the aeration. I like to apply an end of the season lawn fertilizer and Ironite after the aeration and just before a cold rain or wet snow is in the forecast. The fertilizer will then be available for the lawn next spring as temperatures warm up. Protect faucets by draining hoses late in the afternoon.
Thoroughly soak landscape plantings before shutting the water off for the season. Don't allow plantings to go into the winter months dry.
Protect trees from deer damage.
Deer will browse on trees and shrubs as they move through the landscape, but the real damage occurs when bucks scrape their antlers against the tree's trunk causing enough damage to result in tree loss. We wrap every tree, every year.
Avoid the overwhelming task of taking on the entire landscape in one season. Divide the landscape into areas; some designers refer to these areas as rooms. Fully develop one area before moving onto the next.This approach applies to either established or undeveloped landscapes.
Work with the natural configuration of the landscape. Use slopes and contours as transition points from one area to the next. These transition points can include a pathway or hedge that can lead to or divide different areas of the landscape.
Avoid an over-reliance on any one planting. A well-designed landscape includes a balanced mix of trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals. Include underplantings and groundcovers that attract attention and add interest.
Have a plan. It can be sketched onto a napkin or precisely drawn to scale. You can do it yourself or have it professionally done, either way, it's a necessary start to a successful finish.
FOUR SEASON GARDENING
Seasonal changes are one reason so many of us enjoy living in this area. Year-round interest in the landscape lies in planting a balanced mix of well-suited trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals. An over reliance on any one feature can leave the gardens looking dull through much of the year. Designs that include a diversity of plantings are aesthetically pleasing, provide four season interest, and are easier to maintain. Plant communities in the home landscape provide food and shelter for wildlife, attract (and keep) beneficial insects, and allow us to enjoy spending time outdoors. Gardeners now realize the harmful affects of broad spectrum pesticides on beneficials and have moved away from the use of toxic chemicals in the landscape.
Plantings have shifted from foundation to curb.
Though most of us like to be out in the gardens, gardens are often viewed from indoors, especially through the winter months. Looking out into the garden allows us to bring nature into our home; think of it as entering a room, visually. Looking out also inspires us to be out in the gardens when the weather is nice. As I plan a garden, my first thought is to establish the borders as seen from inside my home. Stakes are driven where I am thinking about planting any trees or large shrubs, then I head inside to see how it looks. I also do this standing in an adjoining area of the yard to make sure I'm not obstructing a pleasant view from the deck or anywhere else that views could be blocked or negatively affected by a large planting. By considering not just a single planting, but its relationship to plants around it, the surrounding area, and seeing the garden as a whole rather than individual plants randomly planted throughout the landscape, I can enjoy the gardens from more than one vantage point.
GARDENING BY DESIGN
The goals of a landscape design vary with the individual homeowner. The design may be intended to soften or reduce the intrusion of nearby hardscapes (roadways, neighboring building, parking area, etc.), accentuate a vista, or simply provide an extension of indoor living spaces. For me, it is the influence of all three.
Since my husband and I do the physical labor ourselves, work on a limited time and financial budget, and because our home sits on an acre lot, we decided that working on the landscape in stages is the most practical way to develop our property. It is also the best way for us to thoughtfully plan out how each new garden will blend with existing gardens, providing continuity in the overall landscape.
Slopes are natural drainways and whether created by natural or man-made forces, a practical design can use these features to give the landscape added personality and interest by providing a built-in three dimentional view of the garden. Changes in contour also provide transition points, both physically and visually, to and from other developed areas. Seriously sloped areas can include landings and switchbacks with seating or interesting plantings on leveled areas. Don't confuse a slope with a drop-off; tiered gardens turn an otherwise unusable area into an interesting design feature. Note that gravity pulls water from top to bottom so we try to plant xeric plants at the top of the slope and work down to thirstier plants at the bottom.
Photos taken during the Elko Garden Club '09 Tour
Photos taken during a Perennial Plant Association Tour in SLC, UT
The path least traveled may be more interesting, but when you just want to get from here to there, the old adage that people choose the path of least resistance applies to the efficient landscape design. Pathways need to be wide enough to accommodate two people side-by-side or at least one comfortably. The basic difference between a pathway and a walkway is that walkways are more widely used, but even a pathway should include surfaces that allow for ease of movement without fear of tripping.
On the design, features should be in scale to the lot size. For example, a 1,000 square foot garden area would be in scale on an acre lot and include a mix of large trees, shrubs, drifts of perennials, and colorful annuals in large containers. For several practical reasons, these large plantings are atleast 30 feet from the house.
Photos taken during the Spring Creek Garden Club '04 Tour
In town, such sized gardens with massive plantings would look out of scale. On smaller lots, gardeners are taking out oversized plantings and large sweeps of turf and replacing them with designs that include colorful perennials combined with small-medium sized shrubs to make an artistic use of space and provide a break from an over reliance on one-dimentional turf throughout a landscape. Traditional foundation plantings of Junipers are on their way out to make room for hummingbird gardens and an overall design that is more colorful and interesting.
Photos taken during the Elko Garden Club '09 Tour
SITE DEVELOPMENT
Let the site determine the plants you choose. This applies to trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals and includes available light, water, and soil quality. Our Availability List Pages can provide some of the information you will need when choosing plants for your site. Prior to stopping out, check the area for available light and perform simple, at home, soil tests to determine soil conditions. Many plants die due to either too much or too little water. Knowing the soil's ability to hold needed water and drain any excess is important information when deciding how often and how much to water. Trees are more susceptible to damage resulting from poor drainage, but all plants benefit when gardeners take the initiative to understand and improve the soil's structure and tilth.
I am usually skeptical of catalogs that describe a plant that "does well in poor soil", it seems like an oxymoron to me. Although, it is true that some plants, like xeric plants, do better in lean/sandy soil rather than rich in organic matter soils. We have worked to improve our soils by topdressing with organic matter because we feel it benefits a diverse range of plant types and the beneficial organisms that live in those soils. Soils fare better in a plant community where the relationship between the trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals growing in an area together impact each other and create a bio-diverse environment. The opposite would be a monoculture, where a single planting dominates the growing area. This lack of diversity creates a range of problems not found when diversity exists. Biodiversity provides food and healthy conditions for a broader range of beneficial insects to thrive thereby reducing the need for chemical control/pesticides.
Once you've chosen a site for planting a large tree, consider doing a simple perk test to check for drainage.
Perk Test: Dig a hole and fill it with water, go back a couple hours later and fill the hole again; there's a difference between absorption and drainage. Let sit for four-six hours, after that time, if the hole has standing water in it, that hole has poor drainage. Site drainage can vary within close range, sometimes within 10 feet, so don't get discouraged with that first test. For trees, we recommend digging the hole as deep as the soil level in the container and twice the width. For shrubs, dig the hole as deep as the top of the container and twice the width. That way the top couple of inches of the shrub's roots will be covered to prevent drying. At the time of planting, we do not amend individual holes. By backfilling with native soil the roots are less likely to interface as the roots grow into the adjoining soil. I found this out working in a public garden years ago. We needed to remove an evergreen that just never seemed to grow. Removing the plant didn't require any special tools, I just pulled it out at the base. The root ball never expanded into the adjoining soil, it just stayed a tight ball in the amended hole. Nor do we stake our trees. Native soil in this area tends to be heavy, so trees backfilled with native soil are more likely to grow straight, rather than slanted (despite strong winds that move through the area) because they're not shifting in the hole.
ADDING AMENDMENTS TO THE SOIL
Amendment is a broad term and can include organic matter such as composted manures, wood mulch, peat moss, kitchen compost, etc. These organic amendments will break down over time and need to be replaced. I think of it as feeding the soil rather than feeding the plants. Typically my landscape includes clay in the low areas, sandy loam in the higher areas, and topsoil where the soil has been left undisturbed or was piled when we had excavation work done before building. We did not build or put driveways on topsoil. Avoid disturbing an area until you are ready to begin working/planting it. Once the ground is disturbed, it becomes a natural site for dormant weed seeds to develop.
One frequently asked question is whether to amend the planting hole or the whole bed. My quick answer is, the whole bed. By improving/amending the soil of the entire bed, the plantings are better able to develop a vigorous root system. This applies to beds, borders, hedges, vegetable gardens, and turf areas. When you are ready to amend the soil, it is important that you work when the soil is neither too wet nor too dry. Clay soils compact easily, and working the ground when the soil is too wet will cause serious, long-term damage. Likewise, working dry ground (hurts my back just thinking about it) is simply too difficult to till or spade by hand. We till the top six inches of the entire garden area, add amendments, then bring those tines up and till the amendments into the top four inches. When bringing in topsoil for raised beds, we recommend gardeners level and water the new bed twice over 10-14 days so the new soil has a chance to settle before planting. We have had to bring in additional topsoil to bring the level up to where we want it. Once the desired level has been attained, it is certainly easier to incorporate amendments prior to planting and the additional effort will pay off in the long run.
The amount of conditioning you do to your soil is clearly tied to the expectations of the area. Most gardeners appreciate the importance of topsoil but have little understanding of the need to continuously add soil amendments. Plantings take from, not add to, soil quality and unless replaced, nutrients are quickly exhausted. I enjoy gardening and am willing to topdress with organic amendments and slow-release fertilizers every fall to ensure quality growth next spring and summer.
Characteristics of clay soil:
Heavy
Holds water
Poor drainage
Contracts (cracks) when dry
Compacts when wet
Two simple tests you can perform to check on the condition of the soil when considering an area for new development, or to troubleshoot for problems in an existing garden:
1. Half-fill a clear, quart jar with soil then fill to the top with water, thoroughly shake then let sit overnight. Clay sinks and represents the bottom layer of the mix; loam is lighter and will represent the top layer of the mix. The water can be used to perform a simple pH and fertility test using an at home test kit.
2. While the soil is neither wet nor dry squeeze a clump in your hand, if it breaks up easily, great, if it forms a solid clod, you have clay.
Amendments for soil fertility are simply called fertilizers and include the major elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These elements are represented by three hyphenated numbers and are usually combined with trace (minor) elements and are essential to healthy plants. I apply a slow-release 14-14-14 fertilizer with trace elements along with granular iron in the fall after the perennials have been cutback. I also apply fertilizer in any newly planted gardens developed through the summer months. Application rate is 1 pound per 100 sq. ft. of garden area. I use a hand held spreader and apply to all plantings including trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals. Slow-release fertilizer is temperature activated and the fall application ensures the nutrients will be available for the plants next spring as temperatures rise.
I also apply a water-soluble fertilizer about mid-August. I use a 20-20-20 solution and apply with a hose end sprayer. This gives my perennials and annuals a quick boost for mid-summer color. Without the use of a slow-release fertilizer, I would have to make several applications of water-soluble fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Soil amendment checklist:
Determine existing soil conditions
Replenish organic matter every year
Fertilize on a regular schedule
MAINTAINING THE LANDSCAPE
Nobody comes to the nursery looking for plants that are difficult to maintain. There are seven Xeriscape principles that make a low-maintenance, water-wise landscape attractive and attainable:
Thoughtful planning for beauty and water conservation
Improving/Amending the soil if needed
Limiting turf areas
Efficient irrigation; no more "set it, forget it"
Mulching with organic products
Select appropriate plants and group according to water needs
Maintenance; proper weeding, pruning, and fertilizing
Lawn areas continue to be an important feature of the landscape. But the once traditional large sweeps of lawn are no longer valued since they require a disproportionate amount of time and water; two increasingly valuable resources. To obtain water rights, we were required to install a water meter at the main source in 1991. In 2001, we had a sprinkler system installed for the lawn areas out back. Our water use for the lawn area was cut by one-half after the system was installed. There was also a marked decrease in the amount of chemicals and time needed to maintain the lawn; it has never looked better, and I'm using half the time and water. Through July of 2008, we used 24,821 gallons of water to irrigate a fully developed acre lot with 5,000 sq. ft. of lawn, maintain the greenhouse and nursery areas, and for use in the home. That number increased in July of 2009, to 24,846 and would be unattainable without the use of water-wise gardening. The clock is adjusted several times through the growing season. For the most part, the lawn is watered once a week through spring and fall and every three days through the heat of summer. The system is set to run with two consecutive start times, allowing two twenty-minute cycles. The system runs at night during the summer and in the morning through spring and fall. If your lawn is not on a system, consider using a timer at the faucet. They are easy to program and the water savings is worth taking the time to set the program. Throughout the landscape, I feel a thorough watering is better than a light, frequent watering to establish a deep root system needed for our climate.
Lawn aeration is another important maintenance chore. We schedule ours in the fall, after the last mowing for the season, and follow up with an application of lawn fertilizer and Ironite® to enhance spring growth.
Wondering about the 5 day forecast? Check out The National Weather Service
Click the "Back" button to return to Colorscapes.
Cutback Finished Perennials 
Add amendments to the soil. I think of adding amendments including, peatmoss, compost, and finely chopped bark materials, as feeding the soil rather than feeding the plants (fertilizing). Amended soils retain water and nutrients giving both back when the plants need them. Amendments improve the tilth of the soil and allow plants to develop a stronger root system over the years. We amend the entire bed rather than individual planting holes.
Protect trees from deer damage.
