 
It's a buggy world, but they're not all bad guys. The beneficial Mantises are getting big and looking for food and a sheltered place to lay their eggs. The eggs will go through winter in their protective casing and hatch next spring. Though available by mail, I'm a firm believer that providing a healthy and diverse garden environment (no pesticides) is what attracts (and then keeps) beneficial insects into the landscape. Wondering about the 5 day forecast? Check out The National Weather Service Click the "Back" button to return to Colorscapes.    Garden walls are an easy weekend project and preparing the beds now gives the amended soil a chance to "settle" through the winter and be ready for spring planting when plant selections are at their best.   A well designed winter landscape does not depend on faded perennials. With thousands of perennials in over a dozen gardens, if I don't start now I won't be able to finish, so it's time to start cuttting back the herbaceous perennials (plants whose upper growth dies back through the winter months while the roots are dormant). Shrubs along with evergreen and deciduous trees provide plenty of interest and structure in the landscape throughout the changing seasons. Pruning back perennials now rather than waiting until spring has several advantages. First, spring growth will be hardier and healthier than growth that would otherwise have to force its way through dead, matted foliage or worse, be damaged by even the gentle removing of dead foliage by hand or rake next spring. Second, removing foliage now will eliminate potential breeding havens for pests to overwinter, and third, aesthetically the garden is "winterized" leaving no dead remains to clutter the landscape. Remember that as you cut back the perennials, the ground becomes exposed causing an increase in the soil drying out. Since many fiberous perennial roots are near the surface, it is important to continue watering while the days are warm. Shear Ground Covers American Gardener 6 Volt Clip and Shear is a great tool for doing lots of chores including shearing groundcovers and perennials that have finished flowering. Shearing rather than pruning (which is saved for woody stems) is quick and easy. Cerastium, Saponaria, Dianthus, and other groundcovers have set seed so as you trim back these plants, put the cutback on a tarp to collect any seeds and make cleanup easier. Many favorite varieties have seeds that are viable and if you want to have the plants elsewhere next year, scatter the seeds where you want them. Otherwise, prior to shearing, simply "pet" the plants to drop seeds, this will help thicken and spread the plant for next year. By shearing rather than cutting back to soil level, groundcovers can continue to work through winter. 
Plant Spring Flowering Bulbs.
After the perennials have been cut back, it's time to plant bulbs. I try to get my Spring flowering bulbs in by mid-late October to ensure enough time to develop a root system. By planting after the perennials have been cut back, I can see where there is enough room for planting bulbs towards the middle and back of the gardens. By planting spring bulbs with perennials, the perennials will hide the bulb's foliage as it begins to fade in June. I am careful to avoid planting near aggressive ground covers that form a dense mat that will prevent the bulb from breaking ground next spring. If you're planting bulbs into a newly prepared bed, allow room for planting perennials and annuals next spring; remember to put bulbs towards the middle and back of the garden rather than the front. Bulbs can be planted in masses of single or mixed colors depending on garden style. Mixed colors are less formal and fit well into a naturalized setting. A 2-3" auger, available locally, used with a drill makes quick work of this annual chore. Crocus and Hyacinths are the first to bloom, followed by Daffodils, and finishing with Tulips. Since cold temperatures often carry into May, I look for late season varieties. Grape Hyacinths, Muscari, are my favorites since the snowy, cold, spring weather does not affect their flowers. The hybrid Darwin tulips, like the ones I plant, produce large flowers on tall sturdy stems for about three years, after that, their size diminishes and new bulbs need to be planted. Daffodils, Muscari, Hyacinths, and Crocus will form large colonies and continue to produce large flowers. The larger the bulb, the larger the flower so splurge. The bulbs should arrive in good condition free from wounds and firm. Soft or dried out bulbs will do poorly.  Add amendments to the soil. I think of adding amendments including, peatmoss, compost, and finely chopped bark materials, as feeding the soil rather than feeding the plants (fertilizing). Amended soils retain water and nutrients giving both back when the plants need them. Amendments improve the tilth of the soil and allow plants to develop a stronger root system over the years. We amend the entire bed rather than individual planting holes. After temperatures fall below freezing on a regular basis, the perennials have been cutback, amendments have been added, and the spring flowering bulbs are in, apply a slow-release fertilizer and Ironite so the plants will have the much needed nutrients next spring as they emerge with new growth. Slow-release fertilizers can be either water activated or temperature activated; it is important to check the label and apply a fertilizer that is temperature activated, like Osmocote to avoid encouraging new, tender growth as we move into winter.
Mulch with chopped bark material. Mulching is such an important chore since it will insulate roots, deter weed growth and germination, be aesthetically pleasing, and improve the overall texture of the soil. I like to use very small bark in the gardens since it decomposes within one to two years. Bark and other wood products use nitrogen as they decompose so it is especially important to use a slow-release fertilizer at this time. Plants cannot compete with bark for nitrogen. A leaf rake can be used to expose crowns that overwinter with their foliage: Examples; Lychnis and Poppies. Prune Trees and Shrubs.
After the trees and shrubs loose their leaves, they can be pruned. Without their leaves it is easy to see the branching structure. Thin overgrown shrubs by pruning older branches at ground level. This will sacrifice some spring flowers but will allow more light to reach the center of the plant, strengthen new branches, and allow winter winds to pass more freely through the plant. Likewise, trees are pruned to remove unhealthy branches and add shape and structure to the plant. Most arborists agree that no more than 15% of the overall plant should be removed each year. A light, regular pruning keeps trees and shrubs shaped and vigorous. Adjust the irrigation clock.The back lawn and some developed areas are on a sprinkler system and the contoller has beed adjusted to run for one, 30-minute cycle, during the early am hours, twice a week. I will continue to water twice a week while daytime temperatures remain high. Most of the gardens are on soaker hoses and since it has continued to be warm through the day, I will continue to set the soakers to water every five days. I avoid light, frequent waterings with all plantings. Keep an eye out for dry spots where sprayers or emitters may be clogged or not performing. Upon the advice of the man who installed our sprinkler system, I have cut away the grass around the sprinkler heads and cleaned out the head filters. I mow when the grass is a full 5 inches; it's important to avoid cutting the grass too short, so the mower is set at it's highest setting.
Schedule a lawn aeration and sprinkler system blowout. This is a late-fall chore and follows the last lawn mowing after the leaves have been raked. The lawn should be watered, but not soaked, just before the aeration. I like to apply an end of the season lawn fertilizer and Ironite after the aeration and just before a cold rain or wet snow is in the forecast. The fertilizer will then be available for the lawn next spring as temperatures warm up. Flag sprinkler heads to avoid protential damage from the aeration machine. Protect faucets by draining hoses late in the afternoon.
Thoroughly soak landscape plantings before shutting the water off for the season. Don't allow plantings to go into the winter months dry.
Protect trees from deer damage.Deer will browse on trees and shrubs as they move through the landscape, but the real damage occurs during the rut when bucks scrape their antlers against the tree's trunk causing enough damage to result in tree loss. We wrap every tree, every year. More gardening advice on Marvel's Corner Yes, I know, you don't need more advice, you need somebody to go out and do it...me too. But after all, it's only work if you would rather be doing something else. We always appreciate your questions and comments. Our Email Address is: colorscapes@peoplepc.com Phone Number: 1-775-753-5000 Mailing Address: 167 Pleasant Valley Rd. Unit 5 Spring Creek, NV 89815 Home About Us In the Greenhouse |